As I mentioned a few weeks ago, I have found a way to cut quilting stencils with my Silhouette Cameo. I have a ton of quilting designs and have just finished adapting the first batch to quilting stencils. The above file is an example. The little black lines in between the longer lines are actually little bridges that keep everything together, but because the design was reduced in size the white part became invisible.
The above design is free and can be downloaded from my website at http://www.quiltersniche.com/SVG-Quilt-Stencils/SVG-New-Stencils.htm .
Material to use:
You’ll want something you can look through so you can see where to place the stencil on your quilt. Preferably It should also hold up to repeated use. I tried the following:
– Tracing paper, but found it too flimsy.
– Plastic dividers that are used in binders. The cheaper ones that I bought at Target worked quite well, but their size was a drawback as they are only 8″ wide and many designs require at least 10″.
– Grafix Clear Craft Plastic, 0.007 weight, bought from Amazon (also available at Dick Blick). The sheets were 12″ x 12″ and came in a pack of 25 sheets for under $10. I used a medium setting for the blade and double cut and then had to send it through the Silhouette a second time with the same settings. NOTE: when you send it through a second time, make sure you do not unload the mat after the first time. Just send it through again while the mat is still loaded. So it actually does a double cut twice and takes a bit longer.
– Finally, I tried Grafix Matte 0.005 Dura-Lar Film, also from Amazon. I liked this one the best. As it is matte it is easier to see where the cut lines are and I did not have to send it through the Silhouette a second time as it is just a tad thinner. Unfortunately it did not come in 12″ x 12″ so I had to settle for 9″ x 12″ sheets.
When the stencil is cut, you can mark your quilt with a pounce or with an air or water erasable fabric marker and then just stitch over the lines. A great method for those of us that are not too good at free motion quilting. Plus, it can be done with any machine whether a regular sewing machine or a long arm.
Not all designs make good quilting stencils. If there is too much backtracking or lots of lines cross each other, stencils would be too confusing to follow. When a line crosses another one you may see the following:
The first image shows how a line crosses another one. In the second image the red lines show how they should be stitched. The red lines are not shown in the actual stencil design, but once in a while a stencil may have some red arrows to indicate the direction of stitching. Make sure you deselect these red arrows before cutting your stencil so they don’t cut.
Here are a few a few of my stencil designs:
Sorry, the double lines do not show up in the graphic, but they are in the stencil. This is a corner block that can be combined with the border design.
Together they become this:
The border can of course be repeated. Fill half the width of the quilt. Then mirror the same designs for the other half.
Here is a 1/4 block in the same style:
The red arrows are stitching directions. The spine has to be sewn twice (backtracked). I try to avoid this as much as possible, but sometimes it is necessary to avoid tie-ins and tie-offs. By repeating and rotating the 1/4 block 4 times you get this result:
By backtracking over the spine, the whole block can be sewn in one go without any tie-offs.
One more note, the size of the stencil designs is adjustable in the Silhouette software. So, by cutting your own you can adjusts them to fit your quilt.
For more designs, please visit my website.
Feel free to share and pass this on to your quilter friends.
Until next time,