Setting and corner triangles

Let’s say you are making a quilt with 4″ square blocks that are all turned on point. The main block is easy, you just add 1/2″ to the finished size, so you cut them at 4 1/2″.

Then you have to decide what size the triangles on the sides and corners should be. You would start again with the finished size of the main blocks and for the side setting triangles you add 7/8″ to that measurement and slice the blocks in half diagonally.

For the 4 corner triangles you add 1 1/4″ to the 4″ so the block to cut is 5 1/4″. You then slice that block twice from corner to corner to get the 4 corner triangles.



If you like, you can also add a little bit more and trim the blocks later, or you could leave a little bit of extra fabric above the points to float the blocks.

If you need more information I highly recommend and article posted by Robin Strobel. The link is:

If you are a longarm quilter with a computerized system, please check out the Welcome and New Designs pages on my website for special discounts: .

Happy quilting,


Big embroidery ideas – small hoop.

When you like big designs, but only have a small hoop, there is a solution. This works for both free standing lace embroidery and applique designs. Just group several small designs together and treat them as applique.

Instead of stitching them on hooped fabric, stitch each design on water soluble stabilizer (WSS). Free standing lace and applique designs can be stitched in the normal way. Other lace designs may need an extra layer of either tule, organza, or a grid of cross-hatched stitched lines and defined edges so that that the design does not fall apart when the stabilizer is dissolved.

After the WSS is removed and the designs are dry arrange them on your quilt or quilt block. A bit of washable glue on the back will hold them in place. Use a regular sewing machine with monofilament thread or embroidery thread that matches the design. A straight stitch around the outside edge or a narrow zigzag stitch will do the trick and does not require hooping.

The advantage of this system is that you can fill a quilt block with embroidery and decide on the placement of the designs before they are attached. You could even make a whole wall hanging that way. Here is an example I made a couple of years ago:


Have fun everyone.



Heat transfer and other vinyl

So far I’ve been cutting mostly fabric with my Silhouette Cameo.  To tell the truth, I was a bit confused about vinyl as there seem to be so many different types. So it was time for some research and what better place to do that then on the Web. It seems we can find just about anything there. True enough, I found a terrific explanation at It is too long to copy it all here and I don’t want to bore you. Just click on the link if you are interested in learning about different types of vinyl. They also have a chart with the specific settings they use with their cutting machines. They do warn to use those settings as a starting point only and to always do a test cut first as there may be minor variations in machines and batches of vinyl.  There are charts for the Silhouette Cameo, Silhouette SD, Silhouette Cameo v3, and Cricut. Below is the one for the Cameo v3; the other charts can be found at . Silhouette Cameo – Software Version 3 machine settings Hope this helps someone else as much as it helped me understanding the different types of vinyl. Happy crafting, Georgette